Anti-Aging Done Right: The Mature Skin Redesign

Certain ingredients do anti-aging right, redesigning mature skin so it shines like it did when you were decades younger!

Mature skin tends to be drier, flakier, and thinner. It can be dull and saggy with a collection of lines and wrinkles. Skin cells don’t turn over as quickly as they once did, so ingredients that promote collagen synthesis are a priority.

Skin doesn’t age overnight, but as time goes on, skin does become more sensitive to environmental, chemical, emotional, and physical stress. Unhealthy diet, sleep deprivation, and dangerous lifestyle habits (such as frequent sun exposure and incorrect skincare routines) will all be reflected in your complexion.

By the time we reach our 40s, 50s, and beyond, we see structural changes in skin such as loss of muscle tone and decreased skin thickness, says The International Dermal Institute.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD SKIN CELLS RENEW?

The skin is made up of several layers, and to analyze it, let's begin with the surface, which is called the epidermis,where the skin barrier is located. Underneath that is the dermis, a thick, fibrous, and elastic layer where sweat and oils are produced. 

Beneath the epidermis and the dermis is the subcutaneous layer. Made up of fatty tissue, it keeps us warm and acts as a "shock absorber" for skin.

Healthy skin stays fresh with an epidermal cycle where dead skin cells flake off or wash off and then are replaced with new ones. The cycle typically takes about 28 days. As we age, that cycle slows to become a 45 or even 60 day one, resulting in the accumulation of dead skin that ages us and can cause serious skin problems like psoriasis.

THE FIRST DECLARATION OF ANTI-AGING: HOW YOU TREAT YOUR SKIN IN YOUR 20s WILL AFFECT YOU FOR LIFE

When you’re in your 20s, your skin is firm, supple, and hydrated and you'll want to maintain those qualities to keep looking youthful as you age chronologically.

If you have acne, use a gentle, natural anti-inflammatory cleanser that contains soothing ingredients like niacinamide, as opposed to harsh, chemical-based products that can damage the protective skin barrier.

While aging, women can still be plagued by acne, brought on by the hormonal changescaused by pregnancy, menstruation, or perimenopause. In mature skin, the acne will be deeper and more cystic, and you’ll really need the protection of the skin barrier, but if it has been damaged by harsh products, it will be hindered in performing its job!

Even more important than careful (gentle is best!) treatment of acne, is proper sun protection. Protecting your skin from the harm of the sun is the foundation of every anti-aging plan, says the American Academy of Dermatology, adding that there’s so much evidence that the sun prematurely ages skin that there’s even a word for it: “photoaging.”

SKIN CARE MISTAKES FROM OUR 20s THAT COME BACK TO HAUNT US IN OUR 40s AND 50s

• We don’t remove all makeup before washing. You need an eye makeup remover or a gentle cleansing water, or both, to dissolve and remove it.
  
  
• We sleep with makeup on. Doing this means that makeup can get stuck in our pores and create inflammation and possibly, infection.
  
  
• We don’t wash our face in the morning. Though you were asleep, your glands still produced sebum, your pores produced sweat, and residues from hair products were transferred onto your face - those need to be removed even if with a swipe of micellar water.
   
• We wash too frequently. Skin should be washed every morning and evening. More than that can create a backlash where the glands produce too much sebum. If your face feels dirty and oily in the middle of the day, mist with a hydrosol, such as a rose, cucumber, or lavender one.
  
  
• We don’t wash and dry correctly. First, splash the face with lukewarm (not hot!) water. Hot water will strip away all oils and lead to irritation. Apply a gentle cleaner, such as one with rose ingredients, on your fingertips. Starting at the corners of the mouth, work up, lathering in a circular motion. Even though your skin is plump and firm in your 20s, you do need to think about renewal, so use products that contain small amounts of AHA/BHAs like salicylic acid. Most consumers think “pimple fighter” when they hear “salicylic acid,” but salicylic acid is a hydroxy acid, so it is also a wonderful anti-aging combatant that smoothes texture, builds collagen, and boosts cell renewal. Also, salicylic acid is so gentle, it’s often recommended for red, irritated skin!

• We think sunscreen is only for when we wear swimsuits. But as bad as direct exposure is indirect sun damage, which you can get even just by sitting near a window or when riding in a car! UV rays will reflect off concrete, sand, water, and snow, so it is necessary to wear sunscreen at all times.

• We neglected to moisturize. Even oily skin needs to be moisturized, no matter your age! Skin becomes dry as we age and that dryness magnifies lines and wrinkles. If your skin is oily, use a light, non-comedogenic moisturizer. Don’t forget your neck, either, because that’s one of the first places that will show your age.

• We go overboard with “anti-aging” products. This may sound counterintuitive, but anti-aging products tend to focus on repair and rejuvenation and since your skin can still repair itself in your 20s, there is a danger of overdoing it with these products. Overuse of products that promote cell turnover can irritate your skin, especially if it is sensitive!
  
  
• We left out anti-aging products entirely. Yes, you don’t want too much “renewal,” but you do need something, perhaps products with some known wrinkle-fighting vitamins, such as Bs, C, A, D, K and E.
  
  
• We picked at our face. When skin ages, it becomes thinner, and thinner skin shows scars more easily. So don't pick at your face, you'll increase the risk of scarring every time you do! 

THE ANTI-AGING FIGHT: REDESIGNING MATURE SKIN

Above all else, mature skin needs to be hydrated. The best botanical oils have moisturizing capabilities, as well as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-fungal properties. Other natural humectants like hyaluronic acid help skin retain plumpness and vitality.

Anti-aging routines include:

• Washing with a cream or oil-based cleanser. As we age, skin loses moisture and nutrients, so stick with gentle botanical ingredients, such as rosehips or lavender. This will not only moisturize, but give your skin the benefits of antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, as it dissolves excess oil and cleans out pores.

• Adding shine. Skin becomes dull with age, so illuminate it with the reflectivity of diamonds, pearls, and minerals.
  
  
• Moisturizing and protecting. Select a vitamin rich moisturizer that also has antioxidants to fight aging and oxidation. Some of the best ingredients are plant butters, such as cocoa, mowrah or shea, as well as aloe vera. If your skin is especially dry, you can also use an oil such as prickly pear seed oil. This oil is packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatories and is rich in vitamin E, essential fatty acids (omega-6), omega-9, vitamin K, amino acids, and polyphenols. Olive-based squalane is light, but absorbent. In fact, it feels more like a gel than an oil and you can layer it under or over makeup.

• Remembering the eyes. Some of the best ingredients include: green tea, which reduces puffiness; vitamin K to heal; hyaluronic acid to plump; chamomile, full of antioxidants and anti-inflammatories; and avocado oil to make skin glow and improve the overall look of skin.
  
  
• Using a separate moisturizer for day and night. They each address different needs; for instance, a day moisturizer should include sunscreen and a night moisturizer should provide ingredients to assist with cell renewal.

WHY SHOULD I CONSIDER OILS FOR MY MATURE SKIN?

Oils can be used to cleanse or to moisturize, either by themselves, or together with creams. Some of the best ones are:

• Argan: Often referred to as “liquid gold,” this is one of the beauty secrets of Moroccan women. Argan oil, created from the kernals of the argan tree, is abundant in vitamins A and E and the essential fatty acids (linoleic acid, omega-3 and omega-6). Mature skin needs protection and healing, and argan oil is full of antioxidants, substances that seek out and destroy free radicals, the rogue cells responsible for aging and disease. Argan oil soothes irritated, cracked, damaged, sore or burned skin, and speeds healing.

• Jojoba: An emollient, this makes an excellent face moisturizer. Full of the natural antioxidant vitamin E, jojoba oil helps balance the skin’s oils. It mimics our skin's own sebum and hydrates when our bodies stop producing it. On the other hand, it has strong antibacterial properties so it can also help remove excess oil. Jojoba is commonly used to treat psoriasis and eczema.
  
  
• Sweet almond: This is a type of almond oil with which many of us are familiar. Sweet almond oil can be used by itself or as a carrier oil. It’s rich in vitamin E, monounsaturated fatty acids, proteins, potassium, and zinc. It can be used as a moisturizer and/or cleanser, and it helps to even skin tone and soothe psoriasis and eczema. This great anti-aging warrior reduces lines and plumps and firms skin.
  
  
• Avocado: This oil contains omega-3 fatty acids, as well as vitamins A, D and E. It is thick and penetrates deeply, enough to protect the skin barrier.
  
  
• Rosehip: This anti-aging miracle is packed with vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. They work together to correct hyperpigmentation, hydrate dry, itchy skin, and reduce scars and fine lines. Rose is one of the biggest plant sources of vitamin C, increasing collagen synthesis and tightening and brightening skin while speeding wound healing. 
  
  
• Squalane: Olive-derived squalane is the plant-derived version of squalene. The Dermatology Review notes there have been several studies in recent years showing that squalane moisturizes and may also be an effective anti-aging treatment by lessening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Although some moisturizers can be a little irritating, the The International Journal of Toxicology says squalane is effective for sensitive skin. Squalane is non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn’t promote breakouts.

• Prickly Pear Seed Oil: This oil provides skin with potent hydration, vitamins, nutrients, and antioxidants. It promotes collagen production, fights free radicals and inflammation, removes dirt, and prevents oil over-production.

WHAT IS THE SKIN ACID MANTLE?

The acid mantle is also known as the protective skin barrier; it is a naturally secreted, thin, protective film covering skin, made up of oils, fatty acids, lactic acid, amino acids, and skin’s own natural moisturizing factor.

The acid mantle is slightly acidic, around 5.0, and the protective oils help keep the skin cells tight and flat, yielding protection from wind, cold, and water. The acid mantle also makes it more difficult for bacteria to enter the skin.

Your acid mantle can be damaged in spots or washed away entirely by alkaline soaps and body washes that raise the pH of your skin above 6. If you get a “tight” feeling after washing, you’ve probably just stripped away your acid mantle which increases your chances of skin damage and infection. Anti-aging routines will always focus on maintaining the acid mantle. 

ANTI-AGING AND THE MATURE SKIN REDESIGN: OTHER ANTI-AGING INGREDIENTS INCLUDE:

• Copper: One of the best anti-aging ingredients, copper peptides improve elasticity, build collagen, and protect and repair. Copper is packed with antioxidants and promotes the production of hyaluronic acid in our bodies.
• Green tea extract: Green tea contains powerful antioxidants that protect skin and increase the anti-inflammatory response.
• Aloe vera: Aloe vera contains allantoin, antioxidants, and plenty of other nutrients.
• Magnesium: When you’re deficient in this “miracle mineral,” your skin will have fewer essential fatty acids, making it easily dry and inflamed, with a loss of elasticity. It protects, encourages healthy tissue growth, prevents wrinkles, and even calms itchy skin and red blotches.
• Vitamins K: This is one of the best wrinkle fighters, and it will help eliminate those dark circles under eyes. This vitamin speeds healing, so much so that some physicians even recommend taking it a couple of weeks prior to surgery.
• Vitamin A: A deficiency of this vitamin will lead to skin dryness.
• Vitamin B: B vitamins repair and rejuvenate, transporting nutrients to all the cells.
• Vitamin D: This “sunshine vitamin,” fights infections, repairs and promotes skin growth.
• Vitamin E: Both an antioxidant AND an essential nutrient, vitamin E also moisturizes and promotes healing

SHOP HERBAL DYNAMICS BEAUTY PRODUCTS FOR MATURE SKIN